
I’m sitting at the bar at Pappy and Harriet’s treating myself to a full breakfast:
Creamy egg yolks soak into the sourdough toast, deliciously greasy bacon strips nap upon a bed of fried potatoes.
I dig in with only the slightest pang of guilt, consoling myself with the fact that tomorrow it will be back to the steel cut oats and scrambled egg whites.

You see, it’s my birthday today.
This marks 64, not a remarkable one (save for that Beatles song that everyone seems compelled to start singing whenever the number is brought up).
As usual, I take the day to treat myself to a gluttonous breakfast and then head out on a motorcycle ride.
I like to mark the day alone, with my thoughts of the past and the year to come accompanied only by the low moan of the twin cylinders and the desert landscape.
In this way, I can measure just how sore I am compared to last year, calculate how many years I have left in me to swing a leg over the saddle before succumbing to a life of slip on Skechers and pickleball.
It’s packed at the roadhouse, the tables behind me all crowded with hungover hipsters and Chinese tourists.
The throngs have returned to the mythic high desert, selling out the overpriced AirBnB shacks, attracted helplessly to the stringed lights like moths.
Next to me an old desert rat sits with a morning highball while doing a crossword puzzle.
A section of the New York Times, it looks by the Times Roman font, the page quarter folded as the rest of the paper sits patiently nearby.
He works the puzzle methodically, alternating between Across and Down, scratching out calligraphic letters with a ballpoint pen.
He peers over the top of his readers as the bartender walks past, shakes his glass but once and she begins to mix him his next drink.
When she sits the glass down she looks down at his work and shakes her head.
“Dang Jerry,” she says. “Don’t know how you do them tiny puzzles and in ink!”
And here she whips out her cell phone, its cover bejeweled with a galaxy of rhinestone.
“Don’t ya know you can do them all online now? It’ll even give you hints when you get stuck.”
When she walks away to mix up another batch of Bloody Marys he turns to me and shakes his head, admitting me into his confidence: another old guy in a room of youth.
“Hints,” he says.
And then he goes back to his puzzle, his head still shaking , sad for us all.
I think guiltily of the LA TImes I only get on my Ipad these days, of how pretty soon you won’t be able to hold a fat Sunday paper between elbow and rib as you walk into a diner.
The things we lose with each passing year, things deemed extinct or useless.
I still know how to change a typewriter ribbon.
I could probably still get across town using a Thomas Guide.
Write in cursive, dial a rotary phone.
In my old job, I would unspool blueprints the size of a Farrah Fawcett poster and clip them flat to my drafting table.
And using scaled rulers and callipers, trigonometry and scientific calculators, translate the figures into a code that the hulking machinery could understand.
A job that now takes but a few minutes of uploading a cad file into a waiting control.
These life learned skills have been dismissed now.
Things, though quaint, are simply not needed, like travel agents or political integrity.

I pay the tab and head out, only to discover a couple miles down the highway that the bike has a flat rear tire.
A quick look around the treads reveals a naughty little sheet metal screw embedded deep in the tire, just between a row of big block knobbies.
And now my mind starts running through the immediate scenarios:
Shall I attempt to pump it up and limp back home down the 62?
Find a nearby garage on 29 Palms Highway ? (This a longshot, it being a Sunday.)
Or, most likely, accept the humiliation of calling AAA to tow my bike back down the hill?
The desert air is fine, always a surprise after a hellish summer out here.
I gaze up at the sun, weakened by the season yet still held high in the sky.
And I figure I could still have time for a trip through the National Park if I do the right thing-the old thing-and fix this problem myself.
I find a flat piece of pavement and unpack the tools I have onboard: wrenches and screwdrivers, everything sized down as to be portable and suddenly ridiculous.
I pull out a set of tire spoons the size and weight of KFC sporks.
This motorcycle has old school inner tubes, the production year just missing out on the tubeless rims that need only a plug and compressor to carry on.
I will need to take off the wheel to change the tube, a job that I abandoned decades ago, nowadays just taking the bike into the dealer for a tire change.
I sit in the showroom as they wrestle the rubber on and off, playing Candy Crush until I am called up to the counter to pay the bill.

But I am committed now, and start the job.
Somehow, it is oddly comforting to go about this business.
I loosen the axle nut, and slide out the rod, laying the spacers out on the correct sides of the bike so I don’t screw up the install.
Working on my knees, and I am back in the old garage in Cerritos.
In the years before the tangle of handlebars gave way to amplifiers and drum sets, back when the gas fumes made the water heater pilot dance with glee.
It’s all coming back to me, the struggle to break the bead, dropping one side of the tire and then the other into the well of the rim, the slow methodical bite and advance of using three tire irons in concert.
I am amazed to get the punctured tube out and replaced rather quickly, though I am only half way done.
I struggle with the install, cussing into the desert sky as my hands slip off the wee tire irons as I try to reseat the tire onto rim.
I think of frantic tire changes between motos at Saddleback, of the long garage hours spent trying to coax an engine to life, searching for missing spark or fuel.
My teenage years spent kneeling before a motorcycle as if in desperate prayer.
These aching knees sacrificed at the altar of a a rascal god.
But I am happy, suddenly, to be doing this.
To make use of a skill long forgotten, speaking once more in a language thought dead.
And when the rubber finally slips back into place I sit back on my haunches as the portable compressor cackles away.
I pray that I haven’t pinched the new tube, hope that I still have time to complete my ride.
Hope for the best for another year to come, that I will be out here again to celebrate 65.
I pack up the tools and suit up again, checking the tire pressure once more before starting up,.
It holds steady, air captured like a spirit within the tire.
And when I get back on the bike and take off, it feels as though I am flying.


















































































































